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April 2, 2013

Keel Strips



Keel Strippin!

Adding a keel strip is a way to lengthen the life of your fiberglass kayak.  It reinforces the hull in the area most likely to wear down, particularly if you launch on rocky beaches or play in rock gardens.  


For those living in the Greater Puget Sound area, Rhonda Schwab and Kayakers Go Coastal is the place for kayak repair or to have a keel strip installed.  Rhonda is a Pro.   If however you do not have access to Rhonda, I suggest this “easy 26 step process” designed for first timers, just in case you want to try it at home.
1: Decide what color, I suggest black or white.  Exotic colors are time consuming and hard to match.
2: Gather your materials: Shop around. An industrial supplier will be much less expensive than a trendy boat shop. Read all these instructions before making any purchases.

1 quart Polyester Resin/Gel Coat (without surfactant in the mix)
Small bottle of MEKP, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide= activator or hardener)
Small jar of wax surfactant (finisher)
At least 18 feet of 2 inch fiberglass tape (medium weight)
1 roll of three inch blue painters tape +1 roll of two inch blue painters tape
Disposable plastic cups
Tung depressors, or Popsicle sticks, or plastic spoons 
Scissors , disposable paintbrushes
Several pair of disposable latex gloves
Paper towels
Heat gun or hair dryer
Several aggressive grit sanding blocks
Respirator

 













3: On a day with temperatures above 65 degrees F. place your boat on a table or saw horses upside down outside. (I do not recommend working with gel coat indoors but, If due to cold or space you must then you must wear a respirator and provide good ventilation.) ..Unlike Bob : /



4: Using the three inch blue tape place a straight stripe down the center line of the hull. I attach at one end and then once reaching the flatter portion of the hull, unroll the tape, stretch to the stern pull tight and then adhere. This will designate the final outline of your keel strip so be accurate.



5: Using the two inch tape place a line on either side -almost but not quite touching the center blue line. (it helps to use one continuous strip so removal is fast and easy.)



  6: Remove the Center Tape. 


7: Tape the ends to a point.




8: Cover any logos or decals. (Drops of gel coat can be easily removed with MEKP and a paper towel, but this product will melt/smear decals.)

8: Use a sanding block to roughen the surface between the remaining blue tape.

9: Wipe off dust and lay a second tape strip 1/3 inch inside the first blue lines. (This does not have to be perfect as this line will be covered during the second coat.)

10: Cover the Skeg with blue tape.

11: Tape the end of the 2 in fiberglass tape to the stern and roll out along the keel to measure how much you need.  Allow for 2 to 3 extra inches and cut.  Tape the bow end of this fiberglass strip to a Popsicle stick or pencil and roll up until just before you reach the skeg box.













12: With a scissors cut down the center of the tape above the skeg box.  Be care full to do this without unraveling the tape, and 
















cut the end of the tape to a point....

Because of the sharp angle on the Tiderace hull,  I cut a 5 inch separate piece of fiberglass tape for the end of the stern. Most boats can be done with one continuous strip.










Now to mix the gel coat….
13: put on protective gear: Respirator, safety glasses and latex gloves.
… and you thought Zorro looked good in a mask!

Read the directions on quantity of poly resin to amount of MEKP and Finisher and then reduce it down to about one tablespoon of poly resin. The brands I have used vary, so it is best to work this out ahead of time.  For example one tablespoon of gel coat + 12 drops of MEKP + 4 drops of finisher is pretty accurate for my brand. I go heavy on the MEKP on colder days to say 16 to 18  drops.  The finisher amount stays the same. This is where if you need help, ask while you are in the store.


14: Place two tablespoons of resin and appropriate amount of MEKP in a disposable cup and mix with a Popsicle stick for 2 min. .  (Leave the table spoon in the poly resin or on a paper towel. Do not contaminate resin can with MEKP).







15: Add surfactant (finisher) and mix again for 1 min.


 In cooler temps the surfactant can become solid. A quick warm up with a heat gun or hair dryer will quickly remedy this.  Sometimes I just keep it in my jacket pocket and that does the trick.
 













 16: Carefully lift the FG Tape from the skeg area and paint gel coat mix around the box. Replace the tape and carefully, using the brush only, press the fabric into the gel coat. Paint another layer on the top to completely impregnate the fiberglass fabric.


17: Continue this process to the tip of the stern, painting the gel coat to just over the edges of the blue tape. 

18: Now that the hard part is done, mix a batch of 4 tablespoons of resin and return to the boat. If at any time your gloves get dirty replace them for a clean pair.










19: Release the remaining roll of glass tape (on the Popsicle stick). Lift and paint the area beneath it.  Unroll the tape and using the brush only pres it into the gel coat and paint a layer on the top. Continue this process stretching the fabric to straighten it all the way to the bow.









20: At the bow cut the fabric tape to a point and lay down with gel coat.

21: Remove the top/inside layer of blue tape. 

Be careful to not allow the used tape to touch the sides of the boat. If needed, replace dirty gloves with clean gloves before removing the second side of tape.
 















22: Wait to allow this layer to dry completely. You may use a heat gun to speed up this process but plan on taking a break.
23: When it is completely set up… (hard to the touch and not sticky) use a sanding block to completely rough up the surface and sand down the edges of the fiberglass tape, paying close attention to the edges of the skeg box to be sure the skeg moves freely.


24: Wipe off the dust and when clean wipe down the keel area with a paper towel and MEKP to help the second coat adhere.
25: Mix gel coat in 6 tablespoon batches. (This step is fast so the concern of the material setting up too quickly is low.) Completely coat the Final Keel strip area. Plan on this coat being done without any sanding so try to run the brush in long strokes to create a smooth finish.
26: Remove the remaining tape and clean up any drips with MEKP and a paper towel. Smile!  It is done. 

If you are not satisfied with the finish you can sand it smooth or you can retape and and after again completely sanding the surface give it a third coat.  This is the most basic of keel strips. There are a million variations on this theme and if you buy enough boats you may want to try a few more.  Some people mix graphite into an epoxy resin for a more slippery surface, while others prefer a 4 inch wide strip with three inch FG Tape.  RWA has commonly use fiberglas boats in rocky areas so we often coat the ends of bow and stern for added impact protection.  
If you get stuck or have any questions feel free to send me a note through the Rogue Wave Adventures website and I will try to get back to you asap.


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